Living in Peru : your everyday companion

Essay and photos by Rodney L. Dodig


The history and culture of Peru goes back thousands of years, but Lima as a modern city gets it beginning with the Spanish conquest. The historic center of this vibrant city should be on anyone’s short list of places to take visiting friends and family. The history and stories associated with many of the buildings and businesses are available for anyone willing to do a little research.

On the fifth day of my friend's visit, historic Lima center was the place I chose to take him. It was a Sunday, Mother's Day, so the traffic to Lima center was not as crazy as it can get during the week. We flagged down a taxi and arrived in about 15 minutes.

I had the driver drop us in front of the San Francisco Church to take some photos and allow my friend to tour the catacombs. This is probably the most well known church in Lima. After he finished his tour we walked to the Plaza de Armas and stood in front of the Presidential Palace to watch the changing of the guard. This event takes place everyday exactly at noon. For those who enjoy military spectacle, this is quite inspiring.

We then walked back down the street to Cordanos. This is the oldest restaurant in Lima Center. It was opened by a family and eventually they sold it to their waiters. It is still owned by the wait staff to this day. Their specialty sandwich is the Jamon del Norte.

From Cordanos we headed back to the Plaza de Armas past one of the oldest and best preserved of the colonial homes in Lima, Casa de Oidor, so that my friend could photograph the Archbishop’s palace and the Cathedral. Other stunning buildings surround this wonderful Plaza also. Then it was down the street Jirón Conde de Superunda, past Presidential Palace, the Convent de Santo Domingo, the statue of the Shoe Shine Boy (a heart rending story accompanies this statue) to the Casa Osambela. This house was built with four floors, ignoring building statutes of the day (two stories was the limit), so the builder of the home could watch the ships as they arrived in the Port of Callao.

From Casa Osambela we wandered through the streets seeing houses Like Casa Grau, the Palacio de Torre Tagle, the Casa de Goyeneche plus many others with their beautiful balconies. 

See photos of the balconies of Central Lima.

As we walked between these fantastic historical homes we also passed some of the most architecturally striking churches in Lima such as San Agustin. The detailed carvings on this church and the others beg the amateur or professional photographer to focus and snap from many different angles.

The best pisco sours at Plaza San Martin
Having finished the tour of the homes and churches I had mapped out, we headed over to Plaza San Martin to the Hotel Bolivar for a break in our activities and to have what is in my opinion is the best pisco sour in Lima. Plaza San Martin is an incredible site on its own. A spectacularly appointed plaza with a huge statue of one of the generals who won freedom for Peru against Spain, it is surrounded by amazing colonial era buildings all done in white stone.

There are several famous buildings on this square but the Hotel Bolivar is by far the most well known. A stop in the lobby to see the stunning stained glass dome is worth the visit all by itself. Many famous people have stayed here, including Ava Gardner and the Rolling Stones. After a few drinks it was off to Huerfanos (the oldest Italian Pandeleria and restaurant in Lima) for a late lunch. They have great pasta specials there every day for lunch. While we were in Lima Center I also took my friend to Polvos Azules to experience one of these types of mercados. He purchased a bunch of movies to take home and truly enjoyed his day in the heart of Lima.

Chosica
This brings us to the last day of the visit and since his plane was leaving very late in the evening; I wanted him to experience the countryside just outside of the city. Off we headed to Chosica where the sun is always shinning and it is warmer than Lima in the fall and winter.

Arriving we saw lots of tuk tuks (motorcycle taxis), beautiful old homes and stopped at the park in the center to take photos. Of note is the statue that is a miniature on the one that stands above Rio de Janeiro but is still quite impressive. After taking photos we headed up the mountain side to one of the restaurantes campestres where we had a traditional Peruvian lunch (which always involves too much food), talked about the week that had just passed and rested by the pool before heading back into the city.

My friend spent the evening packing and then off we went to the airport. As he took his luggage and before he headed into the airport he pulled me over and said, “This was the best vacation I have ever had.” So, kudos to you Lima, for being an amazing and interesting place. Kudos to you Peru, for your thousands of years of cultures, and to you, the people of Peru, who welcome visitors with warm smiles and open arms.

There is so much more to do and see in Lima and its surrounding area than I have mentioned in these three articles. Take the time to explore this area in depth. You might be amazed at what you find to show and tell your friends and family when they visit.

Read part two: Craft markets, the zoo and a $2.50 meal.

Read more about travel by Rodney Dodig. Click here to see his blog and read his fiction at Peruvian Writer's Group.

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4 Comments

# Kelly says :
24 June, 2010 [ 06:44 ]

Of all the places I have been to in Peru, Chosica is my favorite.  The people, the plaza, the culture, the villages and the mountains are all fantastic.

# kate robertson says :
24 June, 2010 [ 08:29 ]

Thanks for sharing! Wow, this brings back lots of memories of Peru. I lived in Chosica for 3 months, before moving to Ancash for 2 years. I LOVE Peru!

Your suggestions are great -- I can't wait to go back and visit.

Thanks,

Kate Robertson
Founder, Mayu
www.shopmayu.com

# Maria E. Rothenberg says :
2 July, 2010 [ 12:46 ]

Thanks for the good memories.  as a child I used to go with my family to Chosica for wonderful Sundays under the sun!  lovely place and delicious food, including picarones.

# dr garmendia says :
3 July, 2010 [ 08:48 ]

hi it's dr garmendia, i'm a general practitioner and i love to help turists go around Lima, nearby too, and also can attend you as a docor if you get ill...ny number is 998182554....i know many beautiful places in lima, i'm from here but studied inanamerican school.byeeeeeeeeee

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