Lima 27: Peru's best new fusion restaurant
By Kim Allen-Jones
Photos by Carsten Korch
Only open one month, Lima 27 is my new favorite Peruvian Fusion restaurant. Chef Carlos Testino’s new menu is fun and funky, but also amazingly delicious. I have to say I did not meet with the chef this visit so I was unable to ask him how he would describe his cuisine. I’m going to call it “Peruvian Fusion at its best.”
Previously the location of Alfresco in San Isidro, the restaurant is newly decorated incorporating new and old Peruvian styles. The exterior maintains the flavor of an elegant Lima mansion with an ultra modern fountain at the entrance. The interior is warm and inviting with the rooms divided into several dining options. There is a separate rather sexy bar hidden away to one side of the main reception area. Why do I call it “sexy”? I guess it’s because of the back lit panel of the naked woman that graces one wall. The bar has a very intimate feeling, you know, not right out there in the open. Perfect for entertaining that special someone.
From the bar our group enjoyed a strawberry pisco cocktail, the Olibar Martini and a house chicha cocktail. Be sure to ask the sommelier Israel Inigo to match each of your menu choices with wines from the restaurants wine selection.
To begin with I can’t leave out the bread, served hot in a cloth bag. The house-made baguette served with aji amarillo ice cream, sprinkled with smoked Hawaiian salt was really different. We ordered extra. Served to every guest is the “chef’s taste.” Our taste was duck liver foie gras sandwiched between two crispy croutons seasoned with Cusco jelly and garnished with arugula leaves. Next we were served a “Bar Bite” of Panko-breaded pureed cepes – a type of mushroom – with a warm liquid center. Served in a spoon this dish was a mixture of crunchy and liquid textures with lots of wild mushroom flavor.
Our first dish was a “new style sushi,” thin slices of raw Ahi tuna topped with thin slices of foie gras, sprinkled with tiny croutons and a dash of lemon salt. Served with this dish is a syringe of aguaymanto marmalade to drizzle over the dish. Funky and delicious. Our next dish also had a fun twist. El Pastel de Choclo y el Rabo de Toro is an elegant rework of a Peruvian favorite. The choclo pastel is covered with braised oxtail topped with thin slices of fresh mushrooms. At the table drops of truffle oil are administered over the dish with an eyedropper by the floor manager. The sweetness of the choclo and the savory flavor of the braised oxtail are brilliant.
Calle Santa Luisa 295, San Isidro, Lima, 422-8915
Next we enjoyed black pepper and sesame crusted tuna on a bed of leek puree with a garnish of pineapple and passion fruit, Grand Marnier reduction. The pepper application was just enough. A second fish dish of Salmon en Escabeche de Maracuya y Tacu Tacu “Spicy” de Camotes Asados was served on hot rocks. The fish is cooked only on one side and placed on the hot rocks with the uncooked side down arriving at the table perfectly cooked.
We loved all of the plates served this day but the real standout was the Osso Bucco served over a bed of creamy polenta topped with a generous sprinkling of garlicky gremolota served with butter of bone marrow. It was heaven on a plate. Matched with a delicious Italian Forli 2008 Sangiovese, this dish is not to be missed.
Just as good as the main plates are the desserts. We enjoyed three. Peones de Chocolate y Lucuma. These chocolate covered lucuma jewels are served with crumbled brownie and vanilla cream that was an interesting presentation. The Cheese Cake de Uva Borgona was drizzled with a coulis of grapes and pisco. We ended with Recuerdos de Iberica, a cylinder of tender vanilla cake filled with Grand Marnier mousse topped with a crinkled, paper thin strawberry leather and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Lima 27 carries the perfect liqueurs to compliment each of these for the perfect finale.
I can’t wait to go back to Lima 27. I’m going to sip an Olibar Martini in that “sexy” bar with my special someone and, at the table, have a hard time trying to decide whether to try a repeat of one of the dish above or to try something new. Which ever I decide I know it will be delightful.
Add a comment :
Roberto Simpson Ugarte says :
Yesterday I went to Lima 27.... really amazing dishes!!!
The bars and music also delightful
JENNY says :
In fact, it`s one of the best restaurants in Lima-PERU.
Carlos Alberto TESTINO , the Chef, who`s my son, has been
recognize for magazines, news, people etc.
It`s an excellent article. Congratulations.
Monica says :
Excellent restaurant. Fabulous food. One of the best I have ever tried. Chef Testino is unbelievably good and creative.
gazapo says :
Disastrous, vulgar, horrendous service. The food is good. The Sommelier stupendous. But the service is a shame.