Living in Peru : your everyday companion

I will start my walking tour of Barranco at the corner of Av. Miguel Grau and Av. Sáenz Peña. On this corner there is a small pastry shop and restaurant called Espigna de Oro. There is no sign out front but they serve the most wonderful pastries here and it is a good place to get a light snack and have a drink or coffee before you start your walk. There is a park that runs along the length of Av. Sáenz Peña to the Malecon. This park always has people taking a rest and enjoying the day, walking their dogs, feeding pigeons or reading a newspaper. As you walk down the length of this park take the time to notice the beautiful architecture of the buildings on both sides. The park is divided into two parts by the Av. San Martin, here in the middle of this street is a monument built to celebrate Peruvian Independence. Of historical note on this monument, is that it used to reside in Lima Center. At the end of the park you will come to a set of stairs that lead you down to the Malecon Pazos. This is the street that runs along the cliff top next to the ocean. On the other side of a low wall that runs along the sidewalk is a beautiful park that runs its entire length. I recommend that you take a right here and head north for a little taking the paths in the park. The beautiful landscaping and flowers when they are in bloom are stunning. You will also get some breath taking views of the coast and on a good day views of Miraflores all the way to Callao. A bonus is the views of the islands off of the coast. It doesn’t matter if it is sunny or cloudy and foggy; the beauty of this area is not to be missed. At the point where you have enjoyed this little trip to the North enough, turn around and head back along the Malecon to the South.

 

The Malecon will end and the street will turn into the Av. Jr. Junin which runs through some condominiums and homes. Here mixed in with the ultra modern you will find some more interesting examples of older homes that have been rejuvenated. Eventually you will come to a small street called Jr. Domeyer. Take a right towards the ocean on this street and walk to the end. Here you will see the home of Victor Delfin the famous Peruvian sculptor and artist who made the statue called “The Kiss” in the Parque de Amor in Miraflores. The doors, gate and walls to this house are works of art in themselves. Also at the end of this street you will see a gate with a sign over it stating “Pasaje Funicular.” If it is open you can walk inside the gate and enter a small museum located in the building that housed the entrance to the Funicular that would take persons down the cliff to the ocean for a day at the beach. A funicular is like a tram for those not familiar with the word. Inside the museum are logs, documents and photos of Barranco from days long gone. One of the old Trams is still there and you can enter it for an excellent photo op.

Return to Jr. Jumin and continue south where very shortly you will come to a park that contains the cross built on the spot where the founders of Barranco saw the light that led them ashore from being lost at sea while out fishing. Please enjoy this park and the views you will have of the historical Church La Ermita built on this spot to honor the miracle that had saved the fishermen’s lives. There is a small street that runs between the church and park called Calle Abregu and a walk down to its end will get you nice views of the back of the church and the damage done by an earthquake many years ago. When you come back up the street take the stairs down to the level of the church. To your right are the statues of Chabuca Granda a criolla song writer and Jose Antonio de Lavalle who was reportedly her lover, in front of you will be the Bridge of Sighs and to the right another street called Pasaje La Ermita that runs alongside the church and out to the Mirador Catalina Recavarren. This is a beautiful spot to see the ocean from with a nice little terrace and pergola built there to admire the views from. There is a restaurant here called La Posada el Mirador with a second floor balcony where the views are even better. Returning to the front of the church cross the Bridge of Sighs and admire the picturesque views from this famous site in Barranco. The myth states that if you make a wish before crossing the Bridge and are able to hold your breath till you reach the other side, the wish will come true. Running under the Bridge of Sighs and accessible by a stairway at the end of the bridge is the Pasaje Alameda Chabuca Granda with its quaint restaurants. This street will take you to the bottom of the cliffs for a closer look at the ocean and also give you access to cross the Costa Verde Highway and dip your toes into the cold waters of the Pacific. Going back up the Pasaje and stairs to the bridge proceed up the stairs to your left to Calle Ayacucho. Cross the street and walk through the little park till you come to the Municipal Park of Barranco, this is where I will stop Part 1 of the Barranco walk. If you have a chance to take this part of the walk through Barranco please take the time to enjoy all the beauty it has to offer.

 

tags : walk, barranco, Rodney, dodig, lima, districts

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11 Comments

# Consuelo Freyre says :
13 August, 2009 [ 02:34 ]

I can't help but cry looking at these photos, they mean my childhood, my parents, my friends and all the early memories. they mean my brothers, my friends!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Youth was there, I'll walk those streets again someday.........

# Cecilia Rivero says :
13 August, 2009 [ 05:46 ]

Es tan encantador Barranco.

# Cecilia Rivero says :
13 August, 2009 [ 05:47 ]

Barranco is so charming.  I feel at peace when I am at the malecon. :) Peru is such a wonderful country.  I hope to return someday and live in warm Barranco.

# Thomas says :
13 August, 2009 [ 10:21 ]

Great article.  It's too bad Barranco is being destroyed by insane traffic issues caused by closing Bolegnisi and forcing 1000s more cars and combis down San Martin and through the historical area.  I use to enjoy walking around the park area, now I avoid it as much as possible.

# Thomas says :
13 August, 2009 [ 10:24 ]

Great article but it's too bad the historical area is being deluged by combi and micro traffic.  The closing of Bolegnesi has all but destroyed Barranco's once great atmosphere.  Salvemos Barranco!

# jimmyjames says :
13 August, 2009 [ 02:54 ]

Just a couple of weeks ago I set out on a walk from Kennedy past Larcomar and over the bridge to Barranco. Yes, I know I took the long scenic route... I somehow found the mansion that was converted into a restaurant that I was lucky enough to try several years ago, and the home that has been converted to contain many pieces of work from local artists, that I had visited a few times also several years ago. I made my way through the central plaza and was wearing out my fingers taking pictures. But what I mostly found was beautiful old homes and buildings crumbling to dust, and the main road back out, filthy and decaying, noisey and unruly.
I will make notes and return soon as I would like experience what you have described, and what I set out to find in the first place!
Looking forward to part 2.

# Alan Malarkey says :
16 August, 2009 [ 02:31 ]

Hi, thanks for this. last february i stayed in Baranco but probably not for sufficient time to get the best from it. I will be passing through Lima again this year and hope to find lodgings so that I can explore it further. I will bookmark this blog against a time when I can 'walk the walk' In case you are interested have a look at malarkeyenperu.blogspot.com. Good wishes and thanks.

# Anna Mendoza says :
20 August, 2009 [ 10:15 ]

We had some friends over who stayed in the greenish/white house at Saenz Pena 103 Avenue (see pic). It is great option in Barranco for apartment and room rental in a historical monument! Phone: 247 5011 and www.casadeleeuw.com

# JOE DONOVAN says :
5 October, 2009 [ 11:19 ]

AS A YOUNG SEAMAN IN 1952 i WAS LUCKY ENOUGH  TO DOCK IN CALLAO AND THEN VISIT LIMA. LIMA HAS STAYED WITH ME ALLTHESE YEARS. IN MY TIME AT SEA I VISITED MANY PLACES NONE IN MY VIEW MATCHED LIMA. THERE WAS NEVER A BIT OF LITTER ANYWHERE.
 

 

# David N says :
5 October, 2009 [ 02:15 ]

Well, Joe, come on down now and you will find quite a different city from back in '52.  Plenty of trash in the streets, human and otherwise.

# Jaime says :
6 October, 2009 [ 10:37 ]

Hey Joe,
First of all, if you were serving your country back when you visited in    '52, THANKS!!! As for your memories, if you haven't returned in all those years, of course things have changed, but I can assure you that you would, if you visited again, find that Lima and all of Peru would embrace your return. The only trash that seems to floating around the streets here is a cancer with the initials D.N.

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