Living in Peru : your everyday companion

Essay and photos by Rodney L. Dodig

Read about huacas, archaeological sites in Lima, Peru Rodney Dodig last visited Huaca Huallamarca in San Isidro. See them all.

In the heart of Lima in the district of San Miguel is the Parque Leyendas. Besides holding the Lima Zoo (see recent LiP article), it also contains remnants of the largest pre-Columbian city in central Peru. There are 14 large pyramidal structures and at least 50 smaller buildings still remaining despite destruction by urban sprawl.

It is estimated that the archaeological complex covers more than four million square meters. The grandest of these pyramids located within the park include Huaca Cruz Blanca, Huaca San Miguel and Huaca La Palma.

This site has been visited by scholars, scientists and archaeologists since the 1870s with formal excavations starting in the 1920s by Jacinto Jijón y Caamaño. The area containing the city was occupied from 600 BC until the Incan period around 1532 AD when it was deserted after the Spanish conquest. What remains now was formally preserved in 1960 and made part of Parque Leyendas in 1964.

Chronology of cultures at the Parque de Leyenda huacas 600-200 BC: Colina Tradition 200 BC-150 AD: Blanco sobre Rojo Tradition 150-450 AD: Lima Tradition 450-650 AD: Lima and Nieveria Tradition 650-750 AD: Pachacamac and Nieveria 900-1476 AD: Ichma Tradition 1476-1532 AD: Inca Tradition

The city was occupied in seven stages by seven different cultures, starting in around 600 BC with the Colina Tradition, through the Lima Tradition and others, until the Incas from 1476 to 1532 AD (see side bar for detailed information). The city was abandoned for about 150 years after 750 AD for unknown reasons. Each culture added to the existing complex and the size of the pyramids to suit different purposes, some adding paint and amazing friezes.

The Huaca Cruz Blanca is the only one open for tours at this point. You are allowed to enter and view the site from selected vantage points near the structure. There is also a small museum near the rear of this building. This huaca was used by regional chiefs or the Curazago of Maranga and was an important administrative and ceremonial center. Major excavations were done on this Huaca in 1992, 1993 and 2003 with construction done to help preserve this important building.

The Huaca San Miguel is the first one you will see as you enter the park. It is impressive in its size and complexity, containing stairs, plazas and walkways. It is thought this pyramid was built by the Ichma Culture and later abandoned. It was then restored and improved by the Inca with storage bins for grain being added. It was also used as a cemetery by the Inca and several important well-preserved mummies have been discovered at this site. Archaeological digs were done at this site in 2003, 2004 and 2006. Archaeological work, conservation and reconstruction are ongoing.

The Huaca Tres Palos was built and in use from 1100 AD through 1532 AD and it is speculated that it was used solely as a temple and an observatory. Archaeologists discovered 96 wells on the upper platform that might have been used as a solar clock/calendar to help indicate appropriate times for planting crops or when the fishing would be good.

The Huaca La Cruz was built in the same period as the Huaca Tres Palos and so far it is assumed that it was used as an administrative center also. Little work has been done at this site so far but archaeological work continues on this pyramid and more information is expected to be discovered.

The Huaca Middendorf was part of the first real administrative and ceremonial center built in this city. Only a few minor digs have been done at this site but the entire structure has been stabilized so that studies can be done in the future.

The Huaca La Palma is the last of the major buildings on the grounds of the Parqaue Leyendas. This building was the principal administrative site during the time of the Incas. Unfortunately this pyramid deteriorated a great deal before archaeological investigations began on it. Fortunately some amazing friezes, the Aves Piquero and the Cruces Escalonadas, were discovered and restored here in 2001.

There are important huacas that are part of this great ancient city that are not in the park but are on private property. Examples are the Huaca San Marcos and Huaca Concha on land owned by the University of San Marcos. We can only hope that they will help preserve and study these important archaeological sites that are so important to the people of Peru.

The huacas located inside the park are easily as impressive and interesting as visiting the animals there. They alone are worth a visit to this site in the heart of Lima. The Parque Leyendas with its zoo and huacas should be added to any list of places to see when you are in Lima.

Read more about Peruvian culture, history and travel by Rodney Dodig. Click here to see his blog.

tags : Lima archaeology huaca Peru

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2 Comments

# lulu says :
19 May, 2010 [ 08:57 ]

Thanks god for let me be Peruvian...we have a lot of history to show

# Javier Lizarzaburu says :
22 June, 2010 [ 10:55 ]

Dear Rodney,

Some excellent material you have been publishing here.  Congratulations. One of the ironies is that despite the fact that Lima has this huge and very important archaelogocial complex, that could easily be a top touristic attraction anywhere in the world, here we call it a Zoo and a Park of Legends.  But gladly efforts like yours do help people to open up eyes that have been wide shut for too long.  Have a look at my blog if you get a chance, www.limamilenaria.blogspot.com, which also has a different way to look at the city.  All the best, Javier

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